Monday, February 16, 2009
Tour Striker - Arnold - Fat Shots
Hi Martin
I got the tour striker a couple of weeks ago but, because of the weather here in Northern Ireland, I only managed to get out with it yesterday for the first time. I also went out today.
My iron play is not very good - I have a tendency to hit most shots fat. When I first started using the TS, I couldn't get the ball airborne at all. However, I persevered and eventually managed to get good height and fair distance. Does the fact that I got good height on the ball mean that I was coming in at the correct angle?
Also, I scored a line across the ground and placed each ball on the line - similar to your bunker drill. I found that I was getting most of my divots to the left of the line - I am right handed. In other words, I was hitting the ground after the ball or, at least, the same time as the ball. So that`s an improvement. However, I cannot seem to get that nice Cracking sound that I hear good ball strikers get. Will this come in time?
I took my 6-iron out with me and did the following routine - I hit 5 shots with the TS, and then hit 2 shots with my 6-iron to try and transfer my new ball-striking skills to my regular clubs but I found that I was still hitting my 6-iron fat. The TS shots were fine. In fact, I was hitting the TS as far, and sometimes farther, than the 6-iron. Any suggestions there?
Many thanks,
Arnold
Hello Arnold,
I'm sure the weather in Northern Ireland is a little rough this time of year! Being a transplanted Canadian, I understand your issues!
The TS has been designed with a lot of bounce so you can learn to hit the ball with a forward leaning shaft while the club doesn't dig and take big divots. It is likely you are hitting fat shots with the TS and getting away with the subtle miss. When you go to your club you catch the turf before the ball. THIS WILL SUBSIDE!!
You are doing great if you can land "left of the line" when hitting balls. You are already on the right path. While testing golfers with the TS, it was fairly common for golfers to start getting good results with the TS and then chunk their own clubs. You can clearly see the benefits of striking the ball with a forward leaning shaft and know you will refine your striking. It happens naturally but here is a little tip:
While looking at the ball during your swing, see the landing spot left of the ball with your peripheral vision. Have the sense that your club is going to land in that peripheral place rather than under the ball.
I have this feel all the time when hitting balls. It's almost like I see the divot before it happens.
The "cracking" sound you desire? RELAX your wrists and let mother nature let the club seek its in line condition. Strong fingers and supple wrists allow the club to "throw out" with maximum speed. My old coach, George Knudson, said, "You have to give up control to gain control." Man, it took me a long time to figure that one out....
Good luck and report back,
Martin
I got the tour striker a couple of weeks ago but, because of the weather here in Northern Ireland, I only managed to get out with it yesterday for the first time. I also went out today.
My iron play is not very good - I have a tendency to hit most shots fat. When I first started using the TS, I couldn't get the ball airborne at all. However, I persevered and eventually managed to get good height and fair distance. Does the fact that I got good height on the ball mean that I was coming in at the correct angle?
Also, I scored a line across the ground and placed each ball on the line - similar to your bunker drill. I found that I was getting most of my divots to the left of the line - I am right handed. In other words, I was hitting the ground after the ball or, at least, the same time as the ball. So that`s an improvement. However, I cannot seem to get that nice Cracking sound that I hear good ball strikers get. Will this come in time?
I took my 6-iron out with me and did the following routine - I hit 5 shots with the TS, and then hit 2 shots with my 6-iron to try and transfer my new ball-striking skills to my regular clubs but I found that I was still hitting my 6-iron fat. The TS shots were fine. In fact, I was hitting the TS as far, and sometimes farther, than the 6-iron. Any suggestions there?
Many thanks,
Arnold
Hello Arnold,
I'm sure the weather in Northern Ireland is a little rough this time of year! Being a transplanted Canadian, I understand your issues!
The TS has been designed with a lot of bounce so you can learn to hit the ball with a forward leaning shaft while the club doesn't dig and take big divots. It is likely you are hitting fat shots with the TS and getting away with the subtle miss. When you go to your club you catch the turf before the ball. THIS WILL SUBSIDE!!
You are doing great if you can land "left of the line" when hitting balls. You are already on the right path. While testing golfers with the TS, it was fairly common for golfers to start getting good results with the TS and then chunk their own clubs. You can clearly see the benefits of striking the ball with a forward leaning shaft and know you will refine your striking. It happens naturally but here is a little tip:
While looking at the ball during your swing, see the landing spot left of the ball with your peripheral vision. Have the sense that your club is going to land in that peripheral place rather than under the ball.
I have this feel all the time when hitting balls. It's almost like I see the divot before it happens.
The "cracking" sound you desire? RELAX your wrists and let mother nature let the club seek its in line condition. Strong fingers and supple wrists allow the club to "throw out" with maximum speed. My old coach, George Knudson, said, "You have to give up control to gain control." Man, it took me a long time to figure that one out....
Good luck and report back,
Martin
Tour Striker - Bill - Question lag pressure and power
Dear Martin,
About me: My miss is a hook. Broke 90 once and 95 is where I typically shot last summer. Ball flight with longer clubs is low.
Problems: I can't get any zip on the ball. I hit it straight at times but it doesn't go very far. I practice with a blade iron occasionally and 1 out of 5 times I hit the sweet spot. I hit a decent shot with the Tour Striker 1 out of 5 times. TS misses go low and right.
Questions: I think I am smothering the ball with my swing at times. The ball will fly straight; but I'm looking for more zip and distance. Is there something I should be doing with my wrists? How do I build lag pressure? How can I hit the ball with the sweet spot repeatedly? Are there specific drills that I should be working on with the TS? Thanks for reading. Any and all help is appreciated. I just want to be consistent (ly decent) and have fun out there.
Help!
Bill
Hello Bill,
Please tune in later. This question requires a video explanation. Thank you for sending in your comments!
Martin
About me: My miss is a hook. Broke 90 once and 95 is where I typically shot last summer. Ball flight with longer clubs is low.
Problems: I can't get any zip on the ball. I hit it straight at times but it doesn't go very far. I practice with a blade iron occasionally and 1 out of 5 times I hit the sweet spot. I hit a decent shot with the Tour Striker 1 out of 5 times. TS misses go low and right.
Questions: I think I am smothering the ball with my swing at times. The ball will fly straight; but I'm looking for more zip and distance. Is there something I should be doing with my wrists? How do I build lag pressure? How can I hit the ball with the sweet spot repeatedly? Are there specific drills that I should be working on with the TS? Thanks for reading. Any and all help is appreciated. I just want to be consistent (ly decent) and have fun out there.
Help!
Bill
Hello Bill,
Please tune in later. This question requires a video explanation. Thank you for sending in your comments!
Martin
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Tour Striker - Jason - Question about trajectory and range mats
Martin,
I received my Tour Striker last week and started working with it and have some questions. I'm wondering exactly what the ball flight should look like when the Tour Striker is hit well. Most times I get a decent level of height (around an 8-iron as you state) and distance (somewhere around a normal 8-iron). Of course, my pattern is usually off either left or right. Sometimes I hit the Tour Striker and it goes dead at where I'm aiming and flies about 180 yards, which is how far I can hit my 7-iron on an optimal day, but the ball flight is pretty low. Is this a thin shot? Also, will hitting off of mats affect the ability of the Tour Striker to give me accurate feedback?
Thanks,
Jason
Hello Jason,
As you know, the Tour Striker has 36 degrees of loft. Today's lofts are "all over the yard." A club with 36 degrees of loft is yesterdays 7-iron and the modern 8-iron. You may find that you can hit it slightly farther than your current 8-iron as your 8-iron may be 38 degrees. If you do hit a shot that has a flat flight and flies much farther than normal, you have mishit the Tour Striker ever so slightly on the "Pro" side of thin. Poor amateur players hit the ball on the way up and hit it thin. Better players hit the ball "late" on the way down. Both issues result in a thin strike. The Am's that hit the ball on the way up, will always top the ball with the Tour Striker. You are not doing that, so congratulations!
As for your second question; hitting off firm mats with the Tour Striker is great practice and will help you refine your impact alignments as you seek quality strikes. Be cautious of the fluffy mats. They may let you get under the ball a little and cheat the intent of the club.
Thanks for your question and good luck with your impact alignments!
Martin
I received my Tour Striker last week and started working with it and have some questions. I'm wondering exactly what the ball flight should look like when the Tour Striker is hit well. Most times I get a decent level of height (around an 8-iron as you state) and distance (somewhere around a normal 8-iron). Of course, my pattern is usually off either left or right. Sometimes I hit the Tour Striker and it goes dead at where I'm aiming and flies about 180 yards, which is how far I can hit my 7-iron on an optimal day, but the ball flight is pretty low. Is this a thin shot? Also, will hitting off of mats affect the ability of the Tour Striker to give me accurate feedback?
Thanks,
Jason
Hello Jason,
As you know, the Tour Striker has 36 degrees of loft. Today's lofts are "all over the yard." A club with 36 degrees of loft is yesterdays 7-iron and the modern 8-iron. You may find that you can hit it slightly farther than your current 8-iron as your 8-iron may be 38 degrees. If you do hit a shot that has a flat flight and flies much farther than normal, you have mishit the Tour Striker ever so slightly on the "Pro" side of thin. Poor amateur players hit the ball on the way up and hit it thin. Better players hit the ball "late" on the way down. Both issues result in a thin strike. The Am's that hit the ball on the way up, will always top the ball with the Tour Striker. You are not doing that, so congratulations!
As for your second question; hitting off firm mats with the Tour Striker is great practice and will help you refine your impact alignments as you seek quality strikes. Be cautious of the fluffy mats. They may let you get under the ball a little and cheat the intent of the club.
Thanks for your question and good luck with your impact alignments!
Martin
Monday, February 9, 2009
Tour Striker - Steve - How to hit modern clubheads
"Martin, thanks for a very quick and helpful reply!
Could you please answer one more question: I've just got a new set of clubs with big-sized metal fairway woods - much bigger heads than my old 1970 style persimmon (real) woods.
The old woods could be hit like irons, as the heads are current hybrid size, but these new F/W woods are different. What technique (& swing thoughts) do you recommend for modern fairway woods to hit them nice and high and long? I really appreciate your teaching videos that make a complex business "simple".
Thanks,
Steve"
Steve, that is a good question. Modern clubs come with modern shaft lengths and head sizes. I think we'd be better off living in the past sometimes! While your modern club heads are likely more forgiving, your new woods are 1-3" longer than your woods of the past and that changes the lie angle and attack angle.
You have to remember that golf balls that are struck while lying on the ground require a descending blow. A level strike will work, but a club head that passes a ball on the way to its lowest point in the swing works best. This is a subtle negative (downward) decent angle. Now, I'm not telling you to take divots with your 3-wood but I certainly tell a lot of people to FEEL like they are taking divots with their fairway woods. They generally can't. Unless your swing is very steep, usually a result of compensating for a wide open club face, your won't be able to take a divot with a wood. If you can easily, we have some other work to do!
Ah, the modern club head. While forgiving, the newer woods can't be hit from poor lies like the woods of the past. You may be able to use your 5-wood from the rough, but I would not try and dig a 3-wood out of any lie other than a decent condition in the fairway. The attack angle (due to the length of the club) is too shallow and you'll likely get hung up in the grass.
Finally, let the club do the work! Never TRY and hit fairway woods higher that what your personal equation allows. Fairway shots fly high due to backspin, club head speed, centered striker and loft. Manipulation won't help you!
Good luck,
Martin
Could you please answer one more question: I've just got a new set of clubs with big-sized metal fairway woods - much bigger heads than my old 1970 style persimmon (real) woods.
The old woods could be hit like irons, as the heads are current hybrid size, but these new F/W woods are different. What technique (& swing thoughts) do you recommend for modern fairway woods to hit them nice and high and long? I really appreciate your teaching videos that make a complex business "simple".
Thanks,
Steve"
Steve, that is a good question. Modern clubs come with modern shaft lengths and head sizes. I think we'd be better off living in the past sometimes! While your modern club heads are likely more forgiving, your new woods are 1-3" longer than your woods of the past and that changes the lie angle and attack angle.
You have to remember that golf balls that are struck while lying on the ground require a descending blow. A level strike will work, but a club head that passes a ball on the way to its lowest point in the swing works best. This is a subtle negative (downward) decent angle. Now, I'm not telling you to take divots with your 3-wood but I certainly tell a lot of people to FEEL like they are taking divots with their fairway woods. They generally can't. Unless your swing is very steep, usually a result of compensating for a wide open club face, your won't be able to take a divot with a wood. If you can easily, we have some other work to do!
Ah, the modern club head. While forgiving, the newer woods can't be hit from poor lies like the woods of the past. You may be able to use your 5-wood from the rough, but I would not try and dig a 3-wood out of any lie other than a decent condition in the fairway. The attack angle (due to the length of the club) is too shallow and you'll likely get hung up in the grass.
Finally, let the club do the work! Never TRY and hit fairway woods higher that what your personal equation allows. Fairway shots fly high due to backspin, club head speed, centered striker and loft. Manipulation won't help you!
Good luck,
Martin
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Tour Striker - Master Class
Understand this drill in the sand and master it with your Tour Striker! This is a challenge for even the purist strikers and requires great focus and precision.
Tour Strikers, please report back with your success!
Martin
Tour Strikers, please report back with your success!
Martin
Friday, February 6, 2009
Tour Striker - Mark - Has some questions - Video Answer
Martin,
First question, could one derive the same benefit by just trying the hit the ball with the fifth groove of every club or is that what this training aid teaches you to do?
Second question, I have always struggled with the concept of the low point of the swing being ahead of the ball, I assume this training aid ensures that you can't hit the ball unless the low point of the swing is ahead of the ball?
Thanks again, Mark
Video Answer
First question, could one derive the same benefit by just trying the hit the ball with the fifth groove of every club or is that what this training aid teaches you to do?
Second question, I have always struggled with the concept of the low point of the swing being ahead of the ball, I assume this training aid ensures that you can't hit the ball unless the low point of the swing is ahead of the ball?
Thanks again, Mark
Video Answer
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